Planting a Mailorder Daylily
What You Should Expect:
When you receive your new daylilies, open immediately and inspect. If for any reason you are not satisfied or have any questions contact us immediately. Keep in mind that different varieties of daylilies are different sizes.
Do not be shocked at the appearance of your daylilies. The daylilies are shipped bare root with the leaves trimmed to around six inches and the plants should be dry. Too much moisture in the box + heat = increased chance for rot. Trimming the leaves helps establish roots faster and limits the amount of foliage the roots need to support. Once they settle in, new growth will start (except sometimes in fall). The leaves may be a little yellowed or wilted after shipping. Do not be alarmed - this is normal after shipping. New growth will start in a few days if watered. The outer leaves may shed after planting, this is ok, its a normal stress reaction. These plants are really tough. There is a lot of energy stored in the roots.
If you can't plant your daylily right away:
If you cannot plant the daylilies immediately they may be placed temporarily in damp sand or placed in a bucket of water so the roots are kept wet, out of direct sunlight for a few days. Be sure to keep the roots damp. If you can plant them immediately, I recommend that the roots be soaked in water for an hour or two or overnight. Some gardeners also include a weak fertilizer in the soaking water, but this isn't necessary and, if too strong a solution, may actually be harmful. Make sure that your daylilies are clean and healthy before planting them; our daylilies will arrive this way. Daylilies should be planted 18" - 24" apart. the clumps can triple in size each year under favorable conditions.
Planting a daylily is easy:
Prepare the Soil: The soil where you intend to plant your daylilies should be worked into a good loose condition to a depth of at least 1 foot and width of 2 feet. If you have clay like we do, I suggest adding compost to the soil. The addition of compost is always a good idea for any soil type. Dig a hole larger than the root mass. Make a mound in the center of the hole. Set the plant in place with the roots spread on all sides of the mound. New plants should be planted about as deep as they grew originally. The original depth can be determined easily by the band of white at the base of the foliage which indicates the part of the plant which was underground. Do not set the crown (i.e., the point where foliage and roots join) more than 1 inch below the surface of the soil. Work the soil around and between the roots as you cover the plant. Firm the soil and water well. Make sure that there are no air pockets; this can cause the plant to grow poorly. When all the water has soaked in, finish filling in the soil, leaving a slight depression around the plant and water again.
Water deeply weekly during dry spells the first year. We use Milorganite in the spring and mulch with composted horse manure every winter. We haven't watered established plants here-ever. I'm looking for plants that still look good in unfavorable conditions. They do perform best when well watered weekly in dry spells-bloom size, count and color is improved and likely hood of rebloom is immensely increased.